A forgotten staircase has sparked something magical in Kensington. Renovators uncovered a 150-year-old staircase carved with intricate horses beneath layers of paint and decades of renovations in the old Quiet Man building—now the beating heart of Enbarr, Melbourne’s newest Irish dining spot.
The striking find was discovered by hospitality duo Zenita O’Neill and James Gallagher during the restoration of the historic pub on Racecourse Road. Rather than covering it up, they painstakingly restored the timber stairs and built the restaurant’s story around them.
Those hand-carved horses now climb proudly through the centre of the venue—a tangible thread tying Victorian history to Irish mythology.
A Name Born From Myth
The name Enbarr comes from Irish legend—the horse of the sea god Manannán mac Lir, said to travel effortlessly over land and sea. It’s a fitting symbol for a venue that bridges past and present, folklore and fine food.
“This venue has so much heritage,” says O’Neill. “When we uncovered that staircase, we knew it had to be more than décor—it became the story, the soul, the name.”
The find also nods to O’Neill and Gallagher’s own journey through Melbourne’s Irish hospitality scene. After the success of Jimmy O’Neils and Naughty Nancy’s, their new venture with Zengal Hospitality reimagines the space once affectionately known as Aunty Annie’s, returning it to its cultural roots while giving it a thoroughly modern edge.
Irish Folklore Meets Fine Food
Meanwhile, at the helm is Group Executive Chef Declan McGovern, an Irish-born chef whose career spans London’s The Landmark, Galway’s O’Grady’s on the Pier and stints with Matt Moran and Crown Resorts. His menu reinterprets traditional Irish cooking—curing, preserving, and smoking—with a Victorian twist, spotlighting local ingredients and seasonal produce.
“Enbarr is our love letter to Irish hospitality,” says McGovern. “We want guests to feel the warmth of home, the precision of fine technique, and the excitement of discovery in every bite.”
Moreover, each dish arrives with a playful sense of storytelling:
- “The Blacksmith” pairs pork belly and black pudding with celeriac slaw and Montague Farms apple gel (a soulful nod to rustic Irish hearths).
- “Sunday Roast Rewritten” transforms the classic roast into an elegant plate of roasted chicken breast, duck-fat potatoes and Kerrygold mash.
- Seafood lovers will find myth in motion with “Tide & Botanicals”, a gin-cured salmon layered with fennel, lemon crème fraîche and salmon caviar.
- Or for something hearty, “The Chieftain’s Cut” serves a grass-fed beef fillet finished with Jameson and peppercorn sauce.
- Even the comforting Potato & Leek Soup gets a cheeky title—“Have a Craic”—complete with maple bacon and toasted nut granola for crunch.
Additionally, the sides keep things grounded and indulgent: house-made soda bread with caramelised onion butter, Kerrygold mash topped with crispy chicken skin, and Brussels sprouts laced with maple bacon and balsamic. Desserts keep things classic, with Bread-and-Butter Pudding, Jameson Torte and Porter Cake sharing the spotlight alongside after-dinner drams like Five Farms Irish Cream and Galway Pipe Port.
A Story Told in Every Detail
Inside, the dining room feels refined yet relaxed—modern finishes, gentle lighting and just enough nods to its Irish roots to keep the storytelling alive. A sleek adjoining bar anchors the heritage setting in the present day, making Enbarr a welcome addition to Kensington’s growing foodie scene.
Moreover, the restored staircase has quickly become a talking point for curious diners and design lovers alike. It stands as both sculpture and storyteller—an emblem of durability, rediscovery, and the power of place.
As Melbourne heads into autumn, Enbarr will debut a seasonal menu that expands on McGovern’s philosophy of comfort elevated through craft. Much like the mythical horse it’s named for, the restaurant gallops confidently between worlds—Irish and Australian, heritage and modernity, memory and imagination.
Finally, Enbarr is now open at 271 Racecourse Road, Kensington from Thursday to Saturday, 5pm-9pm & Sunday, 12-7pm
