Upper Middle, the first solo venture from longtime hospitality figure Franck Sammut, has quietly opened on Eastern Road, bringing a distinctly European sensibility to a pocket of South Melbourne that’s fast becoming a dining destination.
If the name rings a bell, it should, because Sammut has spent decades behind the scenes of Melbourne institutions like France-Soir, Bistro Thierry, Stokehouse and The Botanical, helping shape the city’s appetite for classic, polished dining.
This time, Upper Middle leans into the rhythms of a neighbourhood café, with a menu built for both quick stops and drawn-out lunches. “After many years working in other dining rooms, it feels special to create something that reflects my own style of hospitality; relaxed, genuine and built for the neighbourhood,” Sammut says.
“My hope is that it becomes part of people’s daily routine, a spot they return to without thinking.”
Baguettes, pizza, & daily rituals
That everyday appeal starts with the format: a baguette and pizza bar backed by a tight brunch offering and St Ali coffee. The baguettes are the superstars here—filled with everything from DOP prosciutto and stracciatella to poached chicken with kipfler potato and house dressing—pitched somewhere between a Parisian sandwich counter and a Melbourne lunch rush staple.
On the pizza side, it’s a similar story of restraint, with San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte, good prosciutto and the occasional curveball (perhaps some nduja with jalapeño honey, or prawns with lemon and herbs).
In the kitchen is Lakshay Kapoor, a Le Cordon Bleu–trained chef who’s come up through Bistro Thierry’s ranks. His approach tracks closely with Sammut’s vision—classical technique, pared back to food you’d happily eat on repeat.
A space with tons of personality
The space itself, designed by Melbourne studio In Addition (the team behind luggage brand July’s retail fit-outs), lands somewhere between polished and playful.
Moreover, there’s a layered green palette, soft timbers and stone and walls dotted with vintage French newspaper clippings—a subtle nod to the kind of European café culture Upper Middle is channeling. The terrace, split evenly with the indoor dining room, looks set to do most of the heavy lifting once the weather warms.
The opening also adds to Fortis’s growing hospitality footprint. The developer behind the Eastern Road project has been steadily curating a portfolio that includes Baker Bleu and Neil Perry’s Margaret—names that signal a clear focus on operators with staying power.
Upper Middle’s intentions in South Melbourne
Upper Middle aims to become the kind of place Sammut imagines—a daily ritual rather than a special-occasion booking—as it settles into the neighbourhood. But early signs point to a venue that understands Melbourne’s sweet spot, always stocked with good bread, strong coffee and a reason to sit just a little longer.
Upper Middle is now open at 34 Eastern Rd, South Melbourne. It seats around 60 across its indoor space and terrace, and trades daily from morning, with dinner service running Thursday to Saturday.