Victoria’s most storied coastal defence site has quietly opened up a new layer of history beneath the surface. After years of conservation work, Fort Nepean’s long-sealed underground tunnels are now accessible again, offering a rare chance to step beneath one of the state’s most dramatic landscapes just as autumn settles in.
A historic fort with a hidden side
At the far edge of Point Nepean National Park, where Port Phillip Bay collides with the Southern Ocean, the 19th-century fort has always carried a certain intensity.
Built in the 1880s to guard Melbourne from naval threats, it later etched its place in history by firing the first shot of WWI for the British Empire, and Australia’s opening shot of WWII. But until now, much of what made the site so intriguing remained hidden below ground.
That’s changed following the Victorian Government’s Heritage Icons Project, which has restored and stabilised a network of underground passageways that were previously closed due to safety concerns.
Visitors can now move through narrow corridors carved into limestone, step inside old ammunition stores and explore bomb-proof chambers that once hummed with military activity.
The experience leans atmospheric, with dim light, cold air and the distant crash of waves filtering through the rock overhead. Parks Victoria says the works aim to preserve the site’s raw character while improving safety and access.
The breezy-autumn hike that gets you there
Hiking to Fort Nepean is one of the most rewarding coastal trails in Victoria, with sweeping views over Port Phillip Bay, Bass Strait and The Rip. And since you can’t drive all the way to the tip, reaching the fort feels well-earned.
If you’re after a shorter walk, the Gunner’s Cottage route is the easiest option. From the furthest point you can drive, it’s about 1.6km one way along a sealed path, passing the historic Point Nepean Cemetery before arriving at the fort’s tunnels and lookouts—around 3.2km return in total.
For a bigger adventure, you can start near the Quarantine Station or park at the park entrance and follow the coastal and road tracks all the way out. This longer route stretches roughly 13–16km return, taking you through coastal scrub, open picnic areas and rugged cliffside scenery.
If you don’t want to walk both ways, a hop-on, hop-off shuttle also runs through the park, linking the entrance, Quarantine Station and Fort Nepean. Many visitors combine the two—walking out through the scenery and catching the shuttle back once they’ve explored the tunnels and lookouts.
Activities to do nearby
The area around Fort Nepean at the tip of the Mornington Peninsula offers a mix of military history, coastal walks and scenic viewpoints. E-bike hire is also available at the park entrance, offering a faster (and less wind-battered) way to cover the route.
A key nearby stop is the former Quarantine Station, established in the 1850s, is one of Australia’s most intact quarantine complexes with holding historic buildings, open grassy areas and easy walking or cycling routes overlooking Port Phillip Bay.
Head up to Cheviot Hill for sweeping views across Bass Strait and old wartime fortifications, with a short walk down to Cheviot Beach, where Prime Minister Harold Holt disappeared in 1967 and a memorial now stands nearby.
Further along the coast, the London Bridge Lookout showcases dramatic limestone formations, with coastal walking tracks and, at low tide, access to striking rock pools beneath the natural arch.
A short drive back towards Portsea brings you to the Portsea Hotel, a reliable spot to warm up with something substantial while looking out over the bay. Further inland, the Peninsula Hot Springs in Fingal offers a more indulgent way to thaw out after a few hours in the elements.
Getting there
To get from Melbourne to Fort Nepean, you can take a train to Marshall Station and then connect with a bus, with the trip taking about 1 hour 48 minutes.
Driving is faster at roughly 1 hour 37 minutes via a direct route. Public transport options without a car are also available but take longer, typically around 3.5 to 4 hours. Otherwise, hop on and off the Parks Victoria’s shuttle service at designated spots spread across the area.