After months of closure and recovery, one of Victoria’s most picturesque bushland escapes is reopening its gates—and against all odds, it’s standing tall and green amid a scorched landscape.
The Leanganook Camping Area, perched high in Mount Alexander Regional Park near Harcourt, officially reopens today. It’s a rare piece of good news for Central Victoria after January’s devastating Ravenswood–Fogarty’s Gap Road fire tore through the region, burning large sections of the surrounding park and orchard country.
However, Leanganook—a beloved pocket of woodland known to locals as the “Apple Valley” campground—was untouched by the flames. The site, shaded by towering Manna Gum and Yellow Box trees and teeming with wildlife, has weathered the season’s disasters like a small miracle.
A Miracle on Mount Alexander
Harcourt’s bushfire recovery has been long and ongoing. But amid the blackened ridgelines, Leanganook has emerged as a symbol of hope—and an easy weekend escape for Melburnians craving open skies and crisp air.
Meanwhile, free and unpowered, the campground offers simple amenities—fire pits, picnic tables, toilets and a communal shelter—set under a canopy alive with birdsong. It’s rustic, peaceful and just 90 minutes from Melbourne.
From autumn afternoons with woodfire smoke curling through the gums, to night skies streaked with stars, this site offers something modern camping apps struggle to capture: a sense of old-school, unplugged freedom.
A Valley Built on Apples (& Resilience)
If the name Harcourt rings a bell, it’s probably because this valley produces nearly 40% of Victoria’s apples. Two heavyweights of Australian fruit—Montague Fresh and Jeftomson Orchards—operate here, alongside the Harcourt Coolstore Co-operative, which now ventures into cider, wine and even mineral water.
Once a fire-affected town, Harcourt is rediscovering its rhythm. Its signature Applefest returned in March with pie-eating contests, local art and apple-packed cook-offs—a celebration of everything the region does best.
What To See & Do Nearby
There’s plenty to explore around the area if you’re keen to make a day of it. Firstly, stop in at Henry of Harcourt to sip small-batch heritage cider crafted by a family-run producer known for some of the best in the country. Nearby, take a short wander to the Silk Worm Farm Ruins, where moss-covered remains tell the story of an ambitious 19th-century gold rush experiment.
For sweeping views, head up to Dog Rocks or Lang’s Lookout, both offering cinematic sunset vistas over the surrounding farmland. Before you set off, swing by Harcourt Produce and General Store to grab a coffee, fresh apple juice and a pastry for the road.
(Keep in mind: while Leanganook Campground and Joseph Young Drive have reopened, some walking tracks remain closed for post-fire safety works.)
Getting there
By Car
It’s an easy 120 km drive from Melbourne. Take the Calder Freeway (M79) northbound toward Bendigo, then exit at Harcourt. From the town centre, follow Joseph Young Drive up the mountain—a sealed, winding road that finishes with a short, unsealed stretch easily handled by a standard 2WD.
By Public Transport
Take a V/Line train from Southern Cross Station to Castlemaine Station, which takes about 1 hour 25 minutes. Finally, connect to a local bus toward Harcourt North.
In a region still healing from summer’s fires, Leanganook Campground stands as a quiet triumph—a living reminder of nature’s resilience, and a reason to return to Victoria’s apple heartland this autumn.